Chatterley has been on the list a very long time, and I've finally gotten around to doing it, taken 2 trips to cover everything though, easily spent 12 hours in there! Only the Hesketh Heapstead and Tub Hall were covered initially, but it's taken me so long to write this, I've been back for pretty everything else that's doable.
I would have attempted to cover more on the first visit, but being left solo after Hesketh during a named storm with failing light, I thought better of the idea. I was expecting everything in the area the volunteers are active in to be locked up tight anyways, which turns out not to be the case. Was a tad damp and the howling wind whilst up in the lovely collapsing Tub Hall was rather off-putting.
The History
I found a website that is a treasure trove of information this time, with lots of documents and information relating to the colliery, it's well worth a look (Here).
Early Mining History
Coal mining occured at Chatterley as early as the C13th, with the first documented mining taking place in 1750. By 1853, Hugh Henshall Williamson had established a mine on the site, working the Ragman and Engine (150 feet) and Bellringer (237 feet) shafts. The Albert and Laura shafts were also worked for a time, being situated to the east of where the Hesketh Pit is today.
The Ragman Pit was deepened to the Ten Feet Seam at a depth of 450 feet in 1863. The workings were very dangerous at this time, with poor ventilation allowing dangerous Methane build up. Miners were still working with candles, so definitely a lethal combination. A single Winding Engine served all three shafts, winding men and coal in 8 cwt. tubs attached by chains to the winding rope, a very dangerous practice.
In 1868, the Whitfield Colliery Company Limited was formed. They immediately undertook improvements to the mine, widening the Ragman and Engine shafts to accommodate two cages. The Engine Pit was also deepened to the same depth as the Ragman, at 450 feet. Both shafts were given their own winding engines, and the use of the Bellringer Shaft was discontinued. This venture was short-lived, coming to an end in 1872.
The Chatterley Site Begins To Take Shape
The Chatterley Iron Company Limited needed an adequate supply of coal for their facilities in the nearby Chatterley Valley, so they bought the mine in 1873 with the intention of developing the mine further, with work beginning in 1874.
The Bellringer Shaft was widened and deepened to a depth of 1,320 feet to reach the Cockshead Seam, and was renamed Institute in honour of a visit by the North Staffordshire Institute of Mining Engineers. At the same time, work to deepen a disused shaft from the 1850s took place, reaching a depth of 990 feet. This shaft was named the Laura Shaft, after the Managing Directors daughter. Both shafts were completed in 1876.
To recover lost output from the 1881 disaster (details below), the Middle Pit shaft (formerly Ragman) was deepened to the Hardmine Seam at a depth of 780 feet, and work to sink a new upcast shaft to replace the Laura began. This shaft was completed in 1883, and was named the Platt Pit after one of the company's directors.
Platt was sunk to a depth of 1,284 feet, being served by a timber Headframe until 1920, when it was replaced with the steel one which remains in situ today. The pit head was gradually developed over a ten year period, with the 1883 Winding House the first structure to be built. The Fan House was added in 1884 which was steam powered, remaining in service until it's decommissioning in 1960. In 1894, an additional steam engine was installed to power the underground rope haulage system.
The Result of Poor Ventilation
There was a disaster at the colliery in 1881. A fire caused by the poor relocation of an underground Smithy caused an explosion which killed 24 men and boys, and caused the collapse of the Laura Shaft, with the shaft and Pit Head having to be abandoned.
The downcast shaft (Institute) was covered to starve the fire of oxygen, but this had the effect of stopping all ventilation of the mine, allowing gas to build up. This resulted in two more explosions, one of which blew the cover off the downcast. It was clear that nobody could be alive in the workings, so the Institute Shaft was partially infilled in order to extinguish the fire. This also failed, so the workings had to be flooded to extinguish the fire.
The Institute shaft suffered another explosion which fortunately didn't result in fatalities. The explosion was caused by the ignition of residual gas when miners were attempting to reach the pit bottom to investigate it's condition following the disaster.
The explosion caused damage to the Headframe and obliterated the cage, dislodging the Guide Rods in the process. Fragments of Timber and Iron were found resting on nearby rooftops and in the fields surrounding the site.
There was another non-fatal explosion in 1912, which proved the need for greater ventilation.
The Colliery Takes Its Final Form
Work to sink the Winstanley Shaft started in April 1913, finishing at a depth of 747ft, with it being named after the companies mining engineer. The Heapstead and Engine House were built entirely of brick to a German design and is unique in British Coal Mining. Upon it's completion in 1914, the Prince Albert and Engine shafts were infilled, as they were no longer needed.
Plans were drawn up to sink a new deep shaft in 1914 to service the Cockshead Seam. It was decided to site it to the east of the Platt Shaft, with preparatory work taking place in 1914, and sinking commencing in June 1915. It was finished by May 1917, with the 21 foot diameter shaft sunk to a depth of 1,959 feet. This was done to increase productivity, as the coalface was nearly 2km away from the Institute Pit Bottom by this time. The new shaft was called Hesketh Pit after the chairman of the board of directors.
The Hesketh Pit
The Pit Head was built alongside a new Power House which contained the Winding Engine Generators and Compressors which were powered by a Reciprocating Engine. The Headframe was built with a dedicated tubway over the railway sidings with construction carried out by Norton-Harty Engineering.
It wasn't long before the first upgrade to the pit, with a new winding drum being ordered from the Worsley Mesnes Ironworks Ltd (who also manufactured the Hesketh Winding Engine) in July 1922. It was to be built as follows -
'The Winding Drum to be part conical and part parallel, 14' 0" on the smaller diameter to accommodate three or four active coils and three idle coils. The cone to be from 14' 0" to 20' 0" diameter with four coils on the cone, the large diameter being about 5 6" wide. The bosses of the drum to be in halves with strong H section arms, of ample proportion and well bracketted, the bosses being bored to fit the existing crank shaft, bolted and hooped together and secured to the crank shaft by two steel keys in each boss.'
It was to be built out of a mixture of Steel and Iron. The cost, including installation by four skilled men and with the deduction of scrap value for the old drum, was £2085 (£97,889 today).
As it would turn out, there was a major defect in the casting of parts for the right hand side of the crankshaft, with the issue being covered up with scrap metal pieces. It didn't take long before the right hand crankshaft bearing was severely damaged from this shoddy workmanship, with correspondence highlighting the issue and claiming for a replacement dated 11 February 1923, attached below.
The Interwar Years
Chatterley would struggle to recover it's prewar output, not due to losses sustained from deaths in the trenches, but due to the state of the post war economy. Cuts in coal exports restricted cashflow for many collieries, with the owners passing this on to the workers with depressed wages.
This led to strikes as part of the General Strike of 1926, although this failed to improve conditions for workers. It did see lorries from all over the country queuing up at Chatterley hoping to leave with whatever coal was available though.
The Wall Street Crash and Great Depression caused yet more problems, with the British economy tanking, leading to widespread job losses. The colliery would undergo a major turnaround as the 30s wore on, with investment in new machinery and increased staffing levels resulting in Chatterley becoming the first colliery in Britain to produce a million tons of coal, achieving this in 1937 and again in 1938.
Aerial shot from 1939 -
Drone Shot from 2022 -
Note how different the area around Hesketh looks before the Tub Hall was built, and the difference in the Headframe itself. I've been unable to find any old shots on Google unfortunately, so the aerial will have to suffice for a comparison.
Post Nationalisation
The Colliery was nationalised in 1947, with investment being made to keep the Pit modern. In 1952, a major reconstruction of the colliery occurred under the NCB to modernise operations. The mine car capacity both above and below ground was increased, with high capacity tubs being introduced.
The original Power House of Stone construction next to the Institute Shaft was demolished, with this not being replaced until 1960. The new Power House contained a Geared Parallel Drum Winder built by Robey of Lincoln, with the AC motor and control gear built by Metro-Vickers. This was likely sourced second hand from another colliery as it was a 1940s designed engine.
Hesketh Upgrades
The Hesketh headgear was completely rebuilt, with it becoming an integral part of the Tub Hall which replaced the original tubway. It was a major upgrade over it's precursor, being considerably larger and built with an L shaped layout. It had tipplers and creeping railways which were operated through a combination of gravity and mechanical power, being used to transport the mine cars to and from a screening and washing plant.
This was situated above the east end of the railway sidings and was where coal was graded before being transferred directly into the rail wagons below. The screens and washery have since been demolished.
An order to replace the Hesketh winding engine's overwind equipment was placed in March 1950 to comply with the updated requirements of the Mining Inspectorate. It was also suggested that the braking engine be replaced even though it was sufficient for the requirements, as it was regarded as having an insufficient retardation rate.
The original overwind equipment was a horizontal screw type system, and was replaced with a pneumatically controlled system which utilised steam restriction gear, and fail-to-safety gear in the event of a 'No Air' situation.
The original 9" diameter braking engine was replaced with a 10" diameter Above Floor type engine, along with new Post Brake Gear. The Post Brake Gear order was modified in May 1950 after Worsley Mesnes suggested gear of their own design was used. Further details on this are attached below.
The equipment was ordered with all the necessary ancillary equipment to install it to the winding control gear, along with an electronic auxiliary air compressor for the overwind system. Brake linings were provided by Ferodo Limited.
In February 1960, a Dirt Disposal Plant was proposed underground at the 8690' Horizon (Hesketh Pit Bottom) that was to be capable of processing 80 tons of raw dirt per hour. It would include the ancillary plant required to feed the crusher from 30 cwt tubs and to transport prepared dirt, an inclined bunker capable of storing 400 tons of prepared dirt, and a tippler station on the No.2 South Moss Return level.
This was deemed necessary to prevent the need for the Hesketh to wind approximately 4,000 tons of free dirt per week, and to relieve pressure on the overburdened surface disposal plant, whilst also reducing the necessary land allocation for future dirt disposal. It would also allow the solid stowage of all workings in seams over 3 foot under the town of Tunstall, minimising surface damage.
This was deemed to be the only workable solution with regards to dirt disposal, the only other option was to maintain the present arrangements. A detailed plan of the disposal plant from 1960 and a revised plan from 1961 can be viewed in the links below.
Detailed Plans (Here)
Revised Plan (Here)
Colliery Upgrades/Modifications
A Methane extraction and utilisation plant was added in 1960, with it being designed to a similar specification to other such plants around the area.
The Platt Fan House was decommissioned, with ventilation duties being taken over by the newer Walker Fan House.
The original steam winding engine for the Winstanley Shaft was replaced with an electric winder manufactured by John Tinsleys of Darlington in September 1964.
Proposed 750,000 Tons Scheme
From the late 50s, numerous schemes were proposed to rationalise the majority of colliery operations in the area under Chatterley to improve profitability.
These ranged from increasing output to 2,000,000 tons per year by combining most of the nearby collieries under Chatterley, to modernisation and deepening of the Chatterley shafts to produce 750,000 tons per annum. All the proposals included a new coal preparation plant and sidings and all bar one included the sinking of a new 24ft diameter shaft at Chatterley.
The final scheme was very similar to the previously considered number 4, but at a reduced output level, which was costed at £6,005,894 (£114,728,048.92 today). Details of the various schemes are in the image below.
Coal Preparation Plant
In March 1961, proposals were submitted separately for a new coal preparation plant to replace the existing one on site. This was due to the existing one not being large enough to deal with the colliery's existing output, nor the planned increase to this.
The preparation plant was to be capable of handling 750,000 tons per annum, and would require the construction of new exchange sidings on the Biddulph Valley Railway (BVR) which passed adjacent to the site. This would replace the private line to the Manchester - Stoke - London mainline at Longport that had been built by the Chatterley Iron Company in the previous century.
The increased productivity of this preparation plant would allow a reduction in headcount of 125 with the marshalling work in the sidings rationalised, and the closure of two wharves that served the colliery. This would generate an estimated £89,170 in savings from the reduced man hours and reduction in internal transport of specific coal grades to the washery.
The proven seams at Chatterley were estimated to have 114,593,000 tons of workable reserves at this time, enough to provide at least 50 years of life for the colliery, which was used as part of the justification for the investment, which was costed at £1,377,767 (£25,503,823.53 today). After accounting for all costs associated with the proposal, the savings and the increase in proceeds, it would net £115,377 extra in profit per year once it was operational.
Existing Layout -
Proposed New Layout -
I believe this proposal ended up being rejected as I can't find any evidence of the new sidings being constructed on the western side of the BVR, and the project had a scheduled completion date of 31st October 1964.
There were some sidings linked to the BVR on it's western side to the south of the private line overbridge which were mentioned in the proposal, but these saw very little traffic, with the vast majority of coal traffic sent down the private line. As such, the proposal would have seen this connection removed and replaced with one leaving the new sidings from the North.
I would assume the existing BVR sidings handled the dwindling coal output along with road transport until final closure of the colliery due to other routes closing. The original 1860 connection to the BVR from the Chell Sidings closed in 1910 and was no longer in situ.
As for the private line, I can't find a definitive date for its closure as a through route but I would assume February 1964 as this was when the Pinnox Branch closed, severing the connection to the mainline via Pinnox Sidings. The tunnel on the private line ended up being infilled not long after closure on safety grounds, and the trackbed was landscaped.
Analysis of Coal Reserves
Development of numerous seams was looked at repeatedly to maintain output whilst under the tenure of the NCB. This ranged from proposals for specific seams that were already being worked to investigations into workable reserves, one of which was carried out in 1960, and another in 1961 as part of the coal preparation scheme detailed above.
A comprehensive investigation into the remaining potential reserves at Chatterley was carried out in late 1968, with figures calculated based on production rates and remaining reserves as of May 1969.
This was done to work out how much potential life was left for the colliery due to its dwindling output, along with devising a plan to keep it open in the immediate future due to the imminent exhaustion of the reserves that were being worked at the time.
Moss Seam
The Moss Seam was producing 7,200 tonnes per week from two faces, with the reserves in these faces predicted to run out around February 1970. There was one further face that could be developed, the No.6 North Moss, which could produce between 4-5,000 tonnes per week, but would also be exhausted by the end of 1970, so the Moss reserves were considered extinct with an immediate replacement needed for development.
Ten Feet Seam
These reserves were readily available via the Holly Lane Drifts, with a need to drive roadways 470 yards for access. The distance required was considered a discouraging factor, but coal from the Holly Lane workings already travelled along the route via conveyors, and as such new workings would enhance efficiency by increasing output via this route. The coal in this seam was of good quality for coking.
Bowling Alley Seam
This seam was located between the Holly Lane Drifts and the Ten Feet Seam, with the situation being the same as above.
Holly Lane Seam
The main reserves in this seam were readily available and not being worked at the time. There was some uncertainty as to whether or not the seam was economically viable, but it was considered that with the appropriate selection of equipment, adequate productivity could be achieved.
Hardmine Seam
This seam was found to have a thickness of 55 inches where the Holly Lane Intake Drift intersected it, so was considered to have potential for future development.
Flatts Seam
This seam was readily accessible to the main trunk belts in the Holly Lane district, with a suitable return route via the Bambury Main Dip also readily accessible. The coal was of a marketable condition with a very low ash and sulphur content. The roof of the seam was of weak mudstone and the floor soft fireclay, which would normally be considered difficult to work, but seams elsewhere in the Staffordshire Coalfield had been worked successfully with similar characteristics through the use of powered supports, and double ended conveyor mounted trepenners.
Bambury Seam
Accessible at the outbye end of the Holly Lane Drifts, it was considered to have potential for development after the Holly, Ten Feet and Bowling Seams were exhausted.
Brights Seam
Consideration was taken to potentially extend beyond the dip for further working of this seam, with 3 workable faces lying at pit level beyond the Brookhouse Fault. However, it was doubtful that this coal was of a marketable condition.
Non Viable Seams
Multiple Seams were disregarded in the report due to various issues.
Yard Seam - No practical access
Rough Seven Feet Seam - Doubtful that it was of a marketable quality Hams Seam - Some viable reserves, but did not satisfy accessibility conditions, and was also being worked from the nearby Victoria Colliery
Bellringer Seam - No ready access
Bullhead Seam - No immediately accessible reserves
Cockshead Seam - No immediately accessible reserves
Wimpenny Seam - Too thin for economic working
Brickiln Seam - Too thin for economic working
Diamond Seam - Too thin for economic working
Silver Seam - Too thin for economic working
It was noted that in order to maintain output levels, immediate development of two new faces would be required, and these would have to be in the Ten Feet Seam to be ready on time. The reserves would then have to be worked in descending order due to the seams all occurring within a 144 feet interval, this order being Ten Feet, Bowling Alley then development of the seams around the Holly Lane Drifts. Pillars would also need to be left for protection of the surface in these areas.
Following this plan would net 3 Ten Feet faces, 3 Bowling Alley faces, 3 Holly Lane faces, and a further 2 Holly Lane faces to the north. Due to surface protection not being required to the north, there was also potential for 2 or 3 more faces in the Ten Feet Seam upon completion of extraction from the northern Holly Lane faces.
This would net 550,000 tonnes per annum for 3.5 years, 500,000 tonnes for a further 3 years, and a possible continuation of this output level for a further 2 years, giving the colliery a 10.5 year lifespan from the time of this analysis, with 9 of them as a viable entity. Further developments could be considered at a later time to extend this further still.
A Seam Too Far
As it would turn out, Chatterley wouldn't make it to that 9 year mark, with production ceasing on the 25th March 1977. Production and manpower fell steadily throughout the 70s, with the colliery consistently achieving poor results and producing poor quality coal due to various issues with the faces being worked.
By November 1976, it was agreed with the NUM that any further developments were not practicable at Chatterley, with the previously identified potential reserves around the Holly Lane Drift being better accessed via Wolstanton Colliery due to their distance from the Hesketh pithead.
An underground roadway was driven to Wolstanton in 1976 to work the remainder of the Chatterley Seams. The colliery had survived 30 years under the NCB, which wasn't too shabby considering it was around 120 years old when the reserves were looked at in 1968.
A Heritage Icon
A museum was quickly opened in 1979, but underground tours in the Winstanley Shaft were short-lived, due to the closure of Wolstanton Colliery in 1981. After salvage operations concluded in 1984, pumping ceased, which allowed water levels to rise and also caused Methane to start building up, levels of which were monitored via the Hesketh Shaft. The gas soon reached dangerous levels, so all the shafts were capped off to prevent the gas escaping.
A new underground experience was built by the NCB, but it did little to help the museum's fortunes, with it closing for good in 1993. It is now looked after by volunteers, with an occasional tour covering the parts of the site that are safe to access (not very much...). Parts of the site are in dire need of significant investment in order to maintain it's survival.
The Tub Hall is in a dreadful state, it's not going to stay standing much longer unless efforts are made to save it. Unless there's one standing without it's associated Headframe, I believe it's the only one remaining in England, and if it collapses/ends up demolished, the only surviving example of a colliery with a somewhat similar pit head arrangement will be at the National Mining Museum in Scotland. The future of the site is bleak if nothing is done to save it.
Congratulations if you put in the effort to read through all of that, now on to the explore!
The Explore
Managed to gain access to the site via the constantly moving hole (5th time lucky) with another explorer for a tour guide and went straight for the Hesketh Power House because that's where the good stuff is... Access is simple enough, not sure why people felt the need to break in through the doors prior to my visit.
First up is the winding engine, which is by far the largest I've come across still in situ. Everything remains, including the overwind prevention gear to facilitate safe winding.
There is a staircase providing access to the area just below the drum where you can see how it works as it rotates, with the crankshaft and springs for damping clear to see.
Unfortunately the Winding Engineman's position is pretty stripped compared to elsewhere in the colliery. Some lovely details on the remaining controls though.
Winding Controller Info -
Proceeded into the next room which has a massive hole in the floor along with a lot of switchgear, but not much else, it's the next room along that you want, as it has the generators and a reciprocating engine similar to one that would have been installed originally in situ to power the compressors.
Gauge Goodness -
Starting Procedure -
Reciprocating Engine -
There's also a gantry crane which has a lovely 'sturdy' ladder leading up to it so climbed up for a decent view of the room from above. Ladder goes slightly above the crane machinery, with another short ladder down to it. I didn't even attempt to climb down to it though as the platform was totally rusted through, didn't much fancy the prospect of falling through.
Headed downstairs which is all in darkness. Firefighting machinery is down here, along with a lot of artifacts, I'm presuming that it was used as a storage area when the museum closed.
There are also the remains of the stables, which were built for and formed part of the museum, with one still having some hay in surprisingly. One of the horse names would be enough to offend people today probably 😂
There are the remains of various control panels thrown in a couple of the stables, perhaps retrieved from underground as museum pieces under the museums first lease of life. There's a set of rails running the length of the building, and you can get right underneath the winding drum.
Control Panel -
Stables -
Winding Drum -
Exited the Power House the way we came in and made our way to the deathtrap, sorry Tub Hall, next. Having reached the top, had a gander at the remaining machinery and all the trackwork, and marvelled at the massive collapse on the 2nd level down.
Tipplers? -
Retarder -
My companion needed to leave at this point, so left me to it. Made my way over to the remnants of the small control room, which is nothing but a bare shell now. Presumably this would have been occupied by the Banksman, with the sign for the shaft signals still remaining in situ.
The hall can't have long left, the concrete is failing in numerous locations and as for the metal sections... probably stronger than the concrete at this point, still wouldn't advise walking on them though.
The Collapse -
I was going to try and climb up to the Winding Wheel, but I couldn't see a way safe enough for me to consider attempting to reach the inside stairs solo. There are steps up one of the legs, but considering how much play there was when I went to step on to it, hell no 😂 fuck that with how bad the weather was.
Left the Tub Hall and made a beeline for the conveyor bridges over what was once the railway sidings between the Tub Hall and the other Headframes. In my haste, I completely missed the remains of the conveyor system which would have sent coal down to the coal chutes and into waiting wagons below. More on this in round 2.
There are the remains of trackwork still in situ along with a retarder. Reached the other side and was greeted Heras fencing everywhere with plating on every building in front of me, with the second bridge having an insane amount of barbed wire on the end of it. Not looking promising...
I was losing light fast and was soaked through, so I decided to turn back rather than battling the maze of Heras for potentially nothing, and my camera was pretty much dead. I have since invested in more batteries, so that's no longer an issue at least.
A good call as it would turn out, nothing else would have been accessible bar the Boiler House without taking unnecessary risks in the conditions. Impaling myself on palisade fencing isn't my idea of fun, especially when I had plans to be hitting Fletchers the next day.
That's it for Round 1, went to the nearest pub for a celebratory steak and a well deserved pint!
Round 2
Returned with company, and a determination to make this the last time I need to visit... Safe to say things went very well! Negotiated the maze of Heras, doing our best to avoid the cameras as well. Reached the objective and gained access by rather unwise means... but it worked out well, no limbs were broken, so happy days...
So, starting off with the remains of the Underground Experience! Been covered many times before over the years, but updates on it are generally few and far between due to access being far from ideal, and it's condition is steadily declining.
Ended up coming out at what is more or less the end of the tour. You could try to reach the top of the steps where the tour finishes, but most of the floor is gone with the rest in a dire state. You wouldn't end up trapped underneath if you fell through, as there's a spot you can climb out, but you're going to get very wet, so needless to say, we didn't bother with it.
There's no order to much of the remaining tour due to the demolition of the railway sidings section, and presumably some missing walls from looking at a map.
The structures installed inside the fan drifts by the NCB have really suffered with 30 years of neglect, the floor has rotted through in many places, so you need to watch your step, or you'll end up going for a dip.
First we saw the manual coal winning exhibit which was at the start of the tour, with the Jubilee Drift directly behind us, even though that's at the end of the tour.
Jubilee Drift -
Continued onwards, initially following a path that leads to a dead end. This takes you past the brick lining for what can only be another shaft from its shape. Considering our location between Platt and Institute, I believe this is the Middle Pit which was situated to the South East of Institute.
We doubled back and made our way down a ladder to the next level, which has a display of a level that's being mined through use of a small coal cutter and conveyor system.
Continuing on, we came upon the modern mining exhibit, with a long wall cutter in situ along with hydraulic support beams.
Hydraulic Supports-
Long Wall Cutter -
Communication -
There's also some stacks of wooden beams which are completely rotten, they disintegrate when you touch them which wasn't very helpful, as we used some of them to negotiate the water towards the shafts.
We took a right turn and headed up the steps, past a series of information signs and a conveyor exhibit. At the top of the stairs next to the air lock is a mock control room, with actual paperwork and a control panel.
The other two doors up here are unfortunately dead ends as they were built in the railway sidings, so were demolished when the museum closed due to being considered dangerous and liable to collapse.
Headed back down the stairs and through into a linking tunnel between the Platt and Institute shafts. To the right is a collapsed/infilled tunnel, not really sure what was down there museum wise. Past this you hit the Institute shaft which is a tad flooded, not sure how deep it goes down though as the water was filthy, presumably down to the depth of the cap. Assuming a similar depth to what can be seen in Platt, probably about 20 feet. Some lovely details on the wall here.
Tracking -
I would have attempted to cover more on the first visit, but being left solo after Hesketh during a named storm with failing light, I thought better of the idea. I was expecting everything in the area the volunteers are active in to be locked up tight anyways, which turns out not to be the case. Was a tad damp and the howling wind whilst up in the lovely collapsing Tub Hall was rather off-putting.
The History
I found a website that is a treasure trove of information this time, with lots of documents and information relating to the colliery, it's well worth a look (Here).
Early Mining History
Coal mining occured at Chatterley as early as the C13th, with the first documented mining taking place in 1750. By 1853, Hugh Henshall Williamson had established a mine on the site, working the Ragman and Engine (150 feet) and Bellringer (237 feet) shafts. The Albert and Laura shafts were also worked for a time, being situated to the east of where the Hesketh Pit is today.
The Ragman Pit was deepened to the Ten Feet Seam at a depth of 450 feet in 1863. The workings were very dangerous at this time, with poor ventilation allowing dangerous Methane build up. Miners were still working with candles, so definitely a lethal combination. A single Winding Engine served all three shafts, winding men and coal in 8 cwt. tubs attached by chains to the winding rope, a very dangerous practice.
In 1868, the Whitfield Colliery Company Limited was formed. They immediately undertook improvements to the mine, widening the Ragman and Engine shafts to accommodate two cages. The Engine Pit was also deepened to the same depth as the Ragman, at 450 feet. Both shafts were given their own winding engines, and the use of the Bellringer Shaft was discontinued. This venture was short-lived, coming to an end in 1872.
The Chatterley Site Begins To Take Shape
The Chatterley Iron Company Limited needed an adequate supply of coal for their facilities in the nearby Chatterley Valley, so they bought the mine in 1873 with the intention of developing the mine further, with work beginning in 1874.
The Bellringer Shaft was widened and deepened to a depth of 1,320 feet to reach the Cockshead Seam, and was renamed Institute in honour of a visit by the North Staffordshire Institute of Mining Engineers. At the same time, work to deepen a disused shaft from the 1850s took place, reaching a depth of 990 feet. This shaft was named the Laura Shaft, after the Managing Directors daughter. Both shafts were completed in 1876.
To recover lost output from the 1881 disaster (details below), the Middle Pit shaft (formerly Ragman) was deepened to the Hardmine Seam at a depth of 780 feet, and work to sink a new upcast shaft to replace the Laura began. This shaft was completed in 1883, and was named the Platt Pit after one of the company's directors.
Platt was sunk to a depth of 1,284 feet, being served by a timber Headframe until 1920, when it was replaced with the steel one which remains in situ today. The pit head was gradually developed over a ten year period, with the 1883 Winding House the first structure to be built. The Fan House was added in 1884 which was steam powered, remaining in service until it's decommissioning in 1960. In 1894, an additional steam engine was installed to power the underground rope haulage system.
The Result of Poor Ventilation
There was a disaster at the colliery in 1881. A fire caused by the poor relocation of an underground Smithy caused an explosion which killed 24 men and boys, and caused the collapse of the Laura Shaft, with the shaft and Pit Head having to be abandoned.
The downcast shaft (Institute) was covered to starve the fire of oxygen, but this had the effect of stopping all ventilation of the mine, allowing gas to build up. This resulted in two more explosions, one of which blew the cover off the downcast. It was clear that nobody could be alive in the workings, so the Institute Shaft was partially infilled in order to extinguish the fire. This also failed, so the workings had to be flooded to extinguish the fire.
The Institute shaft suffered another explosion which fortunately didn't result in fatalities. The explosion was caused by the ignition of residual gas when miners were attempting to reach the pit bottom to investigate it's condition following the disaster.
The explosion caused damage to the Headframe and obliterated the cage, dislodging the Guide Rods in the process. Fragments of Timber and Iron were found resting on nearby rooftops and in the fields surrounding the site.
There was another non-fatal explosion in 1912, which proved the need for greater ventilation.
The Colliery Takes Its Final Form
Work to sink the Winstanley Shaft started in April 1913, finishing at a depth of 747ft, with it being named after the companies mining engineer. The Heapstead and Engine House were built entirely of brick to a German design and is unique in British Coal Mining. Upon it's completion in 1914, the Prince Albert and Engine shafts were infilled, as they were no longer needed.
Plans were drawn up to sink a new deep shaft in 1914 to service the Cockshead Seam. It was decided to site it to the east of the Platt Shaft, with preparatory work taking place in 1914, and sinking commencing in June 1915. It was finished by May 1917, with the 21 foot diameter shaft sunk to a depth of 1,959 feet. This was done to increase productivity, as the coalface was nearly 2km away from the Institute Pit Bottom by this time. The new shaft was called Hesketh Pit after the chairman of the board of directors.
The Hesketh Pit
The Pit Head was built alongside a new Power House which contained the Winding Engine Generators and Compressors which were powered by a Reciprocating Engine. The Headframe was built with a dedicated tubway over the railway sidings with construction carried out by Norton-Harty Engineering.
It wasn't long before the first upgrade to the pit, with a new winding drum being ordered from the Worsley Mesnes Ironworks Ltd (who also manufactured the Hesketh Winding Engine) in July 1922. It was to be built as follows -
'The Winding Drum to be part conical and part parallel, 14' 0" on the smaller diameter to accommodate three or four active coils and three idle coils. The cone to be from 14' 0" to 20' 0" diameter with four coils on the cone, the large diameter being about 5 6" wide. The bosses of the drum to be in halves with strong H section arms, of ample proportion and well bracketted, the bosses being bored to fit the existing crank shaft, bolted and hooped together and secured to the crank shaft by two steel keys in each boss.'
It was to be built out of a mixture of Steel and Iron. The cost, including installation by four skilled men and with the deduction of scrap value for the old drum, was £2085 (£97,889 today).
As it would turn out, there was a major defect in the casting of parts for the right hand side of the crankshaft, with the issue being covered up with scrap metal pieces. It didn't take long before the right hand crankshaft bearing was severely damaged from this shoddy workmanship, with correspondence highlighting the issue and claiming for a replacement dated 11 February 1923, attached below.
The Interwar Years
Chatterley would struggle to recover it's prewar output, not due to losses sustained from deaths in the trenches, but due to the state of the post war economy. Cuts in coal exports restricted cashflow for many collieries, with the owners passing this on to the workers with depressed wages.
This led to strikes as part of the General Strike of 1926, although this failed to improve conditions for workers. It did see lorries from all over the country queuing up at Chatterley hoping to leave with whatever coal was available though.
The Wall Street Crash and Great Depression caused yet more problems, with the British economy tanking, leading to widespread job losses. The colliery would undergo a major turnaround as the 30s wore on, with investment in new machinery and increased staffing levels resulting in Chatterley becoming the first colliery in Britain to produce a million tons of coal, achieving this in 1937 and again in 1938.
Aerial shot from 1939 -
Drone Shot from 2022 -
Note how different the area around Hesketh looks before the Tub Hall was built, and the difference in the Headframe itself. I've been unable to find any old shots on Google unfortunately, so the aerial will have to suffice for a comparison.
Post Nationalisation
The Colliery was nationalised in 1947, with investment being made to keep the Pit modern. In 1952, a major reconstruction of the colliery occurred under the NCB to modernise operations. The mine car capacity both above and below ground was increased, with high capacity tubs being introduced.
The original Power House of Stone construction next to the Institute Shaft was demolished, with this not being replaced until 1960. The new Power House contained a Geared Parallel Drum Winder built by Robey of Lincoln, with the AC motor and control gear built by Metro-Vickers. This was likely sourced second hand from another colliery as it was a 1940s designed engine.
Hesketh Upgrades
The Hesketh headgear was completely rebuilt, with it becoming an integral part of the Tub Hall which replaced the original tubway. It was a major upgrade over it's precursor, being considerably larger and built with an L shaped layout. It had tipplers and creeping railways which were operated through a combination of gravity and mechanical power, being used to transport the mine cars to and from a screening and washing plant.
This was situated above the east end of the railway sidings and was where coal was graded before being transferred directly into the rail wagons below. The screens and washery have since been demolished.
An order to replace the Hesketh winding engine's overwind equipment was placed in March 1950 to comply with the updated requirements of the Mining Inspectorate. It was also suggested that the braking engine be replaced even though it was sufficient for the requirements, as it was regarded as having an insufficient retardation rate.
The original overwind equipment was a horizontal screw type system, and was replaced with a pneumatically controlled system which utilised steam restriction gear, and fail-to-safety gear in the event of a 'No Air' situation.
The original 9" diameter braking engine was replaced with a 10" diameter Above Floor type engine, along with new Post Brake Gear. The Post Brake Gear order was modified in May 1950 after Worsley Mesnes suggested gear of their own design was used. Further details on this are attached below.
The equipment was ordered with all the necessary ancillary equipment to install it to the winding control gear, along with an electronic auxiliary air compressor for the overwind system. Brake linings were provided by Ferodo Limited.
In February 1960, a Dirt Disposal Plant was proposed underground at the 8690' Horizon (Hesketh Pit Bottom) that was to be capable of processing 80 tons of raw dirt per hour. It would include the ancillary plant required to feed the crusher from 30 cwt tubs and to transport prepared dirt, an inclined bunker capable of storing 400 tons of prepared dirt, and a tippler station on the No.2 South Moss Return level.
This was deemed necessary to prevent the need for the Hesketh to wind approximately 4,000 tons of free dirt per week, and to relieve pressure on the overburdened surface disposal plant, whilst also reducing the necessary land allocation for future dirt disposal. It would also allow the solid stowage of all workings in seams over 3 foot under the town of Tunstall, minimising surface damage.
This was deemed to be the only workable solution with regards to dirt disposal, the only other option was to maintain the present arrangements. A detailed plan of the disposal plant from 1960 and a revised plan from 1961 can be viewed in the links below.
Detailed Plans (Here)
Revised Plan (Here)
Colliery Upgrades/Modifications
A Methane extraction and utilisation plant was added in 1960, with it being designed to a similar specification to other such plants around the area.
The Platt Fan House was decommissioned, with ventilation duties being taken over by the newer Walker Fan House.
The original steam winding engine for the Winstanley Shaft was replaced with an electric winder manufactured by John Tinsleys of Darlington in September 1964.
Proposed 750,000 Tons Scheme
From the late 50s, numerous schemes were proposed to rationalise the majority of colliery operations in the area under Chatterley to improve profitability.
These ranged from increasing output to 2,000,000 tons per year by combining most of the nearby collieries under Chatterley, to modernisation and deepening of the Chatterley shafts to produce 750,000 tons per annum. All the proposals included a new coal preparation plant and sidings and all bar one included the sinking of a new 24ft diameter shaft at Chatterley.
The final scheme was very similar to the previously considered number 4, but at a reduced output level, which was costed at £6,005,894 (£114,728,048.92 today). Details of the various schemes are in the image below.
Coal Preparation Plant
In March 1961, proposals were submitted separately for a new coal preparation plant to replace the existing one on site. This was due to the existing one not being large enough to deal with the colliery's existing output, nor the planned increase to this.
The preparation plant was to be capable of handling 750,000 tons per annum, and would require the construction of new exchange sidings on the Biddulph Valley Railway (BVR) which passed adjacent to the site. This would replace the private line to the Manchester - Stoke - London mainline at Longport that had been built by the Chatterley Iron Company in the previous century.
The increased productivity of this preparation plant would allow a reduction in headcount of 125 with the marshalling work in the sidings rationalised, and the closure of two wharves that served the colliery. This would generate an estimated £89,170 in savings from the reduced man hours and reduction in internal transport of specific coal grades to the washery.
The proven seams at Chatterley were estimated to have 114,593,000 tons of workable reserves at this time, enough to provide at least 50 years of life for the colliery, which was used as part of the justification for the investment, which was costed at £1,377,767 (£25,503,823.53 today). After accounting for all costs associated with the proposal, the savings and the increase in proceeds, it would net £115,377 extra in profit per year once it was operational.
Existing Layout -
Proposed New Layout -
I believe this proposal ended up being rejected as I can't find any evidence of the new sidings being constructed on the western side of the BVR, and the project had a scheduled completion date of 31st October 1964.
There were some sidings linked to the BVR on it's western side to the south of the private line overbridge which were mentioned in the proposal, but these saw very little traffic, with the vast majority of coal traffic sent down the private line. As such, the proposal would have seen this connection removed and replaced with one leaving the new sidings from the North.
I would assume the existing BVR sidings handled the dwindling coal output along with road transport until final closure of the colliery due to other routes closing. The original 1860 connection to the BVR from the Chell Sidings closed in 1910 and was no longer in situ.
As for the private line, I can't find a definitive date for its closure as a through route but I would assume February 1964 as this was when the Pinnox Branch closed, severing the connection to the mainline via Pinnox Sidings. The tunnel on the private line ended up being infilled not long after closure on safety grounds, and the trackbed was landscaped.
Analysis of Coal Reserves
Development of numerous seams was looked at repeatedly to maintain output whilst under the tenure of the NCB. This ranged from proposals for specific seams that were already being worked to investigations into workable reserves, one of which was carried out in 1960, and another in 1961 as part of the coal preparation scheme detailed above.
A comprehensive investigation into the remaining potential reserves at Chatterley was carried out in late 1968, with figures calculated based on production rates and remaining reserves as of May 1969.
This was done to work out how much potential life was left for the colliery due to its dwindling output, along with devising a plan to keep it open in the immediate future due to the imminent exhaustion of the reserves that were being worked at the time.
Moss Seam
The Moss Seam was producing 7,200 tonnes per week from two faces, with the reserves in these faces predicted to run out around February 1970. There was one further face that could be developed, the No.6 North Moss, which could produce between 4-5,000 tonnes per week, but would also be exhausted by the end of 1970, so the Moss reserves were considered extinct with an immediate replacement needed for development.
Ten Feet Seam
These reserves were readily available via the Holly Lane Drifts, with a need to drive roadways 470 yards for access. The distance required was considered a discouraging factor, but coal from the Holly Lane workings already travelled along the route via conveyors, and as such new workings would enhance efficiency by increasing output via this route. The coal in this seam was of good quality for coking.
Bowling Alley Seam
This seam was located between the Holly Lane Drifts and the Ten Feet Seam, with the situation being the same as above.
Holly Lane Seam
The main reserves in this seam were readily available and not being worked at the time. There was some uncertainty as to whether or not the seam was economically viable, but it was considered that with the appropriate selection of equipment, adequate productivity could be achieved.
Hardmine Seam
This seam was found to have a thickness of 55 inches where the Holly Lane Intake Drift intersected it, so was considered to have potential for future development.
Flatts Seam
This seam was readily accessible to the main trunk belts in the Holly Lane district, with a suitable return route via the Bambury Main Dip also readily accessible. The coal was of a marketable condition with a very low ash and sulphur content. The roof of the seam was of weak mudstone and the floor soft fireclay, which would normally be considered difficult to work, but seams elsewhere in the Staffordshire Coalfield had been worked successfully with similar characteristics through the use of powered supports, and double ended conveyor mounted trepenners.
Bambury Seam
Accessible at the outbye end of the Holly Lane Drifts, it was considered to have potential for development after the Holly, Ten Feet and Bowling Seams were exhausted.
Brights Seam
Consideration was taken to potentially extend beyond the dip for further working of this seam, with 3 workable faces lying at pit level beyond the Brookhouse Fault. However, it was doubtful that this coal was of a marketable condition.
Non Viable Seams
Multiple Seams were disregarded in the report due to various issues.
Yard Seam - No practical access
Rough Seven Feet Seam - Doubtful that it was of a marketable quality Hams Seam - Some viable reserves, but did not satisfy accessibility conditions, and was also being worked from the nearby Victoria Colliery
Bellringer Seam - No ready access
Bullhead Seam - No immediately accessible reserves
Cockshead Seam - No immediately accessible reserves
Wimpenny Seam - Too thin for economic working
Brickiln Seam - Too thin for economic working
Diamond Seam - Too thin for economic working
Silver Seam - Too thin for economic working
It was noted that in order to maintain output levels, immediate development of two new faces would be required, and these would have to be in the Ten Feet Seam to be ready on time. The reserves would then have to be worked in descending order due to the seams all occurring within a 144 feet interval, this order being Ten Feet, Bowling Alley then development of the seams around the Holly Lane Drifts. Pillars would also need to be left for protection of the surface in these areas.
Following this plan would net 3 Ten Feet faces, 3 Bowling Alley faces, 3 Holly Lane faces, and a further 2 Holly Lane faces to the north. Due to surface protection not being required to the north, there was also potential for 2 or 3 more faces in the Ten Feet Seam upon completion of extraction from the northern Holly Lane faces.
This would net 550,000 tonnes per annum for 3.5 years, 500,000 tonnes for a further 3 years, and a possible continuation of this output level for a further 2 years, giving the colliery a 10.5 year lifespan from the time of this analysis, with 9 of them as a viable entity. Further developments could be considered at a later time to extend this further still.
A Seam Too Far
As it would turn out, Chatterley wouldn't make it to that 9 year mark, with production ceasing on the 25th March 1977. Production and manpower fell steadily throughout the 70s, with the colliery consistently achieving poor results and producing poor quality coal due to various issues with the faces being worked.
By November 1976, it was agreed with the NUM that any further developments were not practicable at Chatterley, with the previously identified potential reserves around the Holly Lane Drift being better accessed via Wolstanton Colliery due to their distance from the Hesketh pithead.
An underground roadway was driven to Wolstanton in 1976 to work the remainder of the Chatterley Seams. The colliery had survived 30 years under the NCB, which wasn't too shabby considering it was around 120 years old when the reserves were looked at in 1968.
A Heritage Icon
A museum was quickly opened in 1979, but underground tours in the Winstanley Shaft were short-lived, due to the closure of Wolstanton Colliery in 1981. After salvage operations concluded in 1984, pumping ceased, which allowed water levels to rise and also caused Methane to start building up, levels of which were monitored via the Hesketh Shaft. The gas soon reached dangerous levels, so all the shafts were capped off to prevent the gas escaping.
A new underground experience was built by the NCB, but it did little to help the museum's fortunes, with it closing for good in 1993. It is now looked after by volunteers, with an occasional tour covering the parts of the site that are safe to access (not very much...). Parts of the site are in dire need of significant investment in order to maintain it's survival.
The Tub Hall is in a dreadful state, it's not going to stay standing much longer unless efforts are made to save it. Unless there's one standing without it's associated Headframe, I believe it's the only one remaining in England, and if it collapses/ends up demolished, the only surviving example of a colliery with a somewhat similar pit head arrangement will be at the National Mining Museum in Scotland. The future of the site is bleak if nothing is done to save it.
Congratulations if you put in the effort to read through all of that, now on to the explore!
The Explore
Managed to gain access to the site via the constantly moving hole (5th time lucky) with another explorer for a tour guide and went straight for the Hesketh Power House because that's where the good stuff is... Access is simple enough, not sure why people felt the need to break in through the doors prior to my visit.
First up is the winding engine, which is by far the largest I've come across still in situ. Everything remains, including the overwind prevention gear to facilitate safe winding.
There is a staircase providing access to the area just below the drum where you can see how it works as it rotates, with the crankshaft and springs for damping clear to see.
Unfortunately the Winding Engineman's position is pretty stripped compared to elsewhere in the colliery. Some lovely details on the remaining controls though.
Winding Controller Info -
Proceeded into the next room which has a massive hole in the floor along with a lot of switchgear, but not much else, it's the next room along that you want, as it has the generators and a reciprocating engine similar to one that would have been installed originally in situ to power the compressors.
Gauge Goodness -
Starting Procedure -
Reciprocating Engine -
There's also a gantry crane which has a lovely 'sturdy' ladder leading up to it so climbed up for a decent view of the room from above. Ladder goes slightly above the crane machinery, with another short ladder down to it. I didn't even attempt to climb down to it though as the platform was totally rusted through, didn't much fancy the prospect of falling through.
Headed downstairs which is all in darkness. Firefighting machinery is down here, along with a lot of artifacts, I'm presuming that it was used as a storage area when the museum closed.
There are also the remains of the stables, which were built for and formed part of the museum, with one still having some hay in surprisingly. One of the horse names would be enough to offend people today probably 😂
There are the remains of various control panels thrown in a couple of the stables, perhaps retrieved from underground as museum pieces under the museums first lease of life. There's a set of rails running the length of the building, and you can get right underneath the winding drum.
Control Panel -
Stables -
Winding Drum -
Exited the Power House the way we came in and made our way to the deathtrap, sorry Tub Hall, next. Having reached the top, had a gander at the remaining machinery and all the trackwork, and marvelled at the massive collapse on the 2nd level down.
Tipplers? -
Retarder -
My companion needed to leave at this point, so left me to it. Made my way over to the remnants of the small control room, which is nothing but a bare shell now. Presumably this would have been occupied by the Banksman, with the sign for the shaft signals still remaining in situ.
The hall can't have long left, the concrete is failing in numerous locations and as for the metal sections... probably stronger than the concrete at this point, still wouldn't advise walking on them though.
The Collapse -
I was going to try and climb up to the Winding Wheel, but I couldn't see a way safe enough for me to consider attempting to reach the inside stairs solo. There are steps up one of the legs, but considering how much play there was when I went to step on to it, hell no 😂 fuck that with how bad the weather was.
Left the Tub Hall and made a beeline for the conveyor bridges over what was once the railway sidings between the Tub Hall and the other Headframes. In my haste, I completely missed the remains of the conveyor system which would have sent coal down to the coal chutes and into waiting wagons below. More on this in round 2.
There are the remains of trackwork still in situ along with a retarder. Reached the other side and was greeted Heras fencing everywhere with plating on every building in front of me, with the second bridge having an insane amount of barbed wire on the end of it. Not looking promising...
I was losing light fast and was soaked through, so I decided to turn back rather than battling the maze of Heras for potentially nothing, and my camera was pretty much dead. I have since invested in more batteries, so that's no longer an issue at least.
A good call as it would turn out, nothing else would have been accessible bar the Boiler House without taking unnecessary risks in the conditions. Impaling myself on palisade fencing isn't my idea of fun, especially when I had plans to be hitting Fletchers the next day.
That's it for Round 1, went to the nearest pub for a celebratory steak and a well deserved pint!
Round 2
Returned with company, and a determination to make this the last time I need to visit... Safe to say things went very well! Negotiated the maze of Heras, doing our best to avoid the cameras as well. Reached the objective and gained access by rather unwise means... but it worked out well, no limbs were broken, so happy days...
So, starting off with the remains of the Underground Experience! Been covered many times before over the years, but updates on it are generally few and far between due to access being far from ideal, and it's condition is steadily declining.
Ended up coming out at what is more or less the end of the tour. You could try to reach the top of the steps where the tour finishes, but most of the floor is gone with the rest in a dire state. You wouldn't end up trapped underneath if you fell through, as there's a spot you can climb out, but you're going to get very wet, so needless to say, we didn't bother with it.
There's no order to much of the remaining tour due to the demolition of the railway sidings section, and presumably some missing walls from looking at a map.
The structures installed inside the fan drifts by the NCB have really suffered with 30 years of neglect, the floor has rotted through in many places, so you need to watch your step, or you'll end up going for a dip.
First we saw the manual coal winning exhibit which was at the start of the tour, with the Jubilee Drift directly behind us, even though that's at the end of the tour.
Jubilee Drift -
Continued onwards, initially following a path that leads to a dead end. This takes you past the brick lining for what can only be another shaft from its shape. Considering our location between Platt and Institute, I believe this is the Middle Pit which was situated to the South East of Institute.
We doubled back and made our way down a ladder to the next level, which has a display of a level that's being mined through use of a small coal cutter and conveyor system.
Continuing on, we came upon the modern mining exhibit, with a long wall cutter in situ along with hydraulic support beams.
Hydraulic Supports-
Long Wall Cutter -
Communication -
There's also some stacks of wooden beams which are completely rotten, they disintegrate when you touch them which wasn't very helpful, as we used some of them to negotiate the water towards the shafts.
We took a right turn and headed up the steps, past a series of information signs and a conveyor exhibit. At the top of the stairs next to the air lock is a mock control room, with actual paperwork and a control panel.
The other two doors up here are unfortunately dead ends as they were built in the railway sidings, so were demolished when the museum closed due to being considered dangerous and liable to collapse.
Headed back down the stairs and through into a linking tunnel between the Platt and Institute shafts. To the right is a collapsed/infilled tunnel, not really sure what was down there museum wise. Past this you hit the Institute shaft which is a tad flooded, not sure how deep it goes down though as the water was filthy, presumably down to the depth of the cap. Assuming a similar depth to what can be seen in Platt, probably about 20 feet. Some lovely details on the wall here.
Tracking -
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